Moving on to more exciting things, the electrics!

With a partial wiring harness from the 300Tdi motor and a 1998 Discovery engine bay wiring harness, I began removing what is not needed and what will be salvaged for this conversion.
What I have left from the 300Tdi motor wiring are as follows;

large brown:  to alternator
brown/yellow:  from alternator to charge light
white/grey:  from alternator to tach
solid white:  to injector pump
white/brown:  oil pressure switch


The glow plug relay that I removed from a Discovery wiring harness has the following wires;

orange/brown:  power from battery
yellow/black:   to glow plugs
brown/red:   start solenoid
black/yellow:   glow plug warning light
black:   a large black wire
black:   a smaller gauge wire but does have an eye end, as it was grounded to a body fitting.


Here is the wiring diagram for the 300Di conversion. A bit of this and that from 2 different types of vehicles. The most part of course the electrics are 300Tdi, including a Defender engine compartment fuse box that I have installed. At the end of the day it has turned out to be a simple electrical diagram, with the components easily accessible in the engine compartment.

Since I'm not reinstalling the turbo, the feed and return lines to the turbo had to be blanked off. The feed line was simple to blank, as there is already a plug on the side of the motor that you can match a bolt or plug to. The return line is considerably larger and was difficult to sort out. I noticed that the temp sender unit threads matched the larger threads in the block, so for the time being I'm using the temp sender unit as the plug.

Next the lines for the oil cooler need blanking off. Here I ordered parts that I was told that would fit from a 200Tdi. ....Not all sorry to say.  The end cover to the oil cooler fit perfectly, but the feed line plug was totally wrong.
 Luckily there is a firm in town that repairs hydraulic lines for heavy machinery and there I was able to find the correct threaded plug.



On the exhaust manifold, where the turbo use to reside there is a gapping hole that needed blanking off. A friends brother runs a machine shop who was able to cut out a piece of stainless steel 68.0 mm   in diameter x 4 mm thick. A perfect fit. 




Another small but vital part is installed. The fuel filter housing is mounted on the inner fender so that the fuel lines are free and close to the injector/lift pumps. In this location I also have plenty of run to remove/replace the filter from the top.




The expansion tank was then mounted to the side of the radiator with an additional support bracket jetting out form the inner fender. Solid as a rock with plenty of room to clear the bonnet when it's fully closed and the bonnet support rods are neatly tucked away to the side.





Next was the plumbing.

 The water pump and all the extra hoses for the heater system, expansion tank, return feeds were are all hooked up according to the diagrams that you would find for a 300Tdi equipped vehicle. For ease I used a 300Tdi radiator hose that looks like a spider. By doing so, it made plumbing in the water pump and return line for the heater matrix so much easier.


But the bottom portion where the two hoses didn't meet is where I had to become creative. The hoses were at opposite ends of the radiator (radiator pipe on the right and the radiator hose on the left). My neighbor is a plumber and was more than willing to create the top and lower pipes for me. The lower pipe is tucked up high enough so that there should be no clearance issues with the axle on articulation.


 The top pipe has two 90 degree bends, try doing that with flexi hose....Sure to bind and cause water circulation problems. Also with fixed piping joined by rubber hose at both ends, it acts as flex points therefore reducing stress between the radiator and motor.



Moving on to the drive train the front prop shaft was installed, which showed two more areas that would need the attention of the angle grinder. Firstly was the right strengthening point on the fly wheel housing, the minimal of clearance was here. Secondly is the right motor mount. At a modest amount of axle articulation, the prop shaft would be against the motor mount therefore it to needed some trimming.

Like the strengthening point on the left side I simple removed it totally, it's not needed in this application.




 

The motor mount, I drew a straight line across it to remove the bottom portion. The bottom portion that was removed is equal to the distance between the front axle bump stop and the axle. With equal spacing at both points, I'm confident that I should have no more clearance issues.







Next was the front down pipe for the beginnings of an exhaust system. Spent the better part of a day just measuring and cutting small pieces at at time figuring how to snake the down pipe around the 2 cross members and the suspension mounts. Plus the fact that I have to step up the exhaust pipe because the original tubing is 2 1/4"  in diameter but that you can buy at the local auto suppliers only 2" or 2½", with nothing in between.



You can see that the exhaust does sit slightly lower than the frame rail, because there was no way that it was going to follow the same route as the original exhaust system. It's simply way to tight to fit an 2½" piping between the frame rail and the transmission. It's not the best solution at this time but to get it road legal it will have to do.



After clearing the transfer case it was simply to route the piping upwards next to the inner frame rail and I decided for simplicity to route the exhaust exit straight out the rear PTO hole.

The final order of business was to start making a platform for the air filter canister to sit on. The best thing for me is to follow in Land Rovers foot steps and place the assembly on the motor. Just above the injector pump is where the air conditioning pump would have sat as that mounting plate is perfect to mount everything up to.


Also at the same time I plumbed in the crankcase breather cyclone unit hose to the air intake hose. The new hose you see in the picture is a combination of 2 hoses from a Discovery and a Defender. I tried using regular heater hose but it simply kinked every time I tried to route it. This way it looks factory like.




Finally, the 180° 4 ply silicone hose that is hooked up to the intake manifold, I bought that on eBay. It's the best solution that I could think of to hook up the air filter assembly hoses. To my surprise the outside diameter of the silicone hose is a perfect fit into the original 3" intake hose.




 But with these 2 parts being rather flexible I decided to buy a 2" joiner to insert into the end of the silicone hose so that there is some stiffness there as I tightened up the hose clamp. With everything all buttoned up she looks as if it belongs there.