The clutch master cylinder
was next and installed straight forward, but was impossible to get a full
pedal of pressure. It appeared each time I put pressure on the pedal, the
flex hose would balloon a little. So a new one was ordered. Once it was
installed and the system bleed, I again could not get a full pedal with
pressure. So , a further inspection of the clutch slave cylinder revealed
that the bore was corroded and full of grime. Another order was placed
again, this time for a new slave cylinder. Another week passed a new slave cylinder was installed and the system was bleed again...... Not to my
surprise, again there was NOT a pedal with full pressure. There was only
one thing left to replace and thankfully I had a (new) spare master
cylinder, it was installed! Again the system was bleed and I simply could
not get a full pedal with pressure! I even bleed the system backwards , from
the slave cylinder up to the master cylinder, but it didn't help.
So thinking back to high school physics, " air rises"
I decided to wedge a piece of wood between the clutch pedal and the seat box.
This would then open the valves in the master cylinder and hopefully allow
the air to rise naturally on its own and free the system of air. In
theory it should work, but how long must I wait? Well, I stayed out of the
garage for 5 days. When I finally returned, I removed the piece of wood and
gave the pedal a push....... drum roll please.....it WORKED! Finally I
had a clutch pedal with full pressure. So, if you have the time, this is my
trick that I would suggest to remove air from your hydraulic system.
Then I moved to the inside of the bulkhead and began to install the dash. This actually went pretty smooth as there is a little give in the plastic parts, to allow for the warping from the zinc coating.
I pulled through the
bulkhead, the wiring harness from the engine compartment. AHHH what to do??
Haha just joking, actually this part went straightforward. Before taking the
dash completely apart, I took near 20 pictured of the electrical connections
in the dash, which was a bonus. When I started to rewire everything back
together, I simply taped the pictures to the windscreen and used the
pictures as my memory and guide. Within a few hours it was together without
any major hitches.
Well actually there were a few minor hitches, starting with the
brake warning light/test switch. The wires from the switch, were feed behind
the dash pod, through the bulkhead and then they were feed again back
through the bulkhead then left there dangling, connected to nothing! Next,
there was nothing hooked up to the choke warning light.
The Landy never had a
Hazard Warning Light Switch, but the previous owner did give me one and he
said that they are easy to install. "Just connect the colored wires with the
corresponding colored wire in the vehicles wiring harness" How much
more simpler can it be? ...The truth of the matter is, - how wrong he was!
- it just doesn't go that way.
So I'm going to write/tell everybody how to wire a Hazard
Warning Light Switch "independently" into your series Land Rover. ( It
took me 2 weeks to figure this out )
Assuming that you are using a Lucus Hazard Warning Switch ( part # JL155 ) which is standard Land Rover issue. There are 8 wires/contacts on this switch, so starting in numerical order;
wire/contact # 1;
should be empty, if not, just remove the wire there.
wire/contact #2; should be a green/white wire,
that you will connect to your RH Flasher
wire/contact #3; should be a green/brown wire,
just remove it!
wire/contact #4; should be a green/red wire that
you will connect to your LH Flasher
wire/contact #5; should be empty, if not just
remove the wire
wire/contact #6; should be another green/brown
wire, again, just remove it!
wire/contact #7; should be a green/purple wire
that you will connect to your Hazard Flasher Unit , contact marked with
( L ), then you will find that there is a loose purple wire that is with the
switch, which you will connect to the Hazard Flasher Unit contact marked
with ( X ) and then to a live access with a built-in fuse.
Finally in the center of the switch you will find a black
wire that you use to ground the switch..
That's it in a nut shell and it will work.
Once I was finished with the wiring, I played around with some extra 5 bar aluminum plate that I had and made a little plate for the center of the dash, where somebody has left some ugly holes.
Also, the corroded floor panels were replaced with 5 bar aluminum panels. The drivers side floor panel, I glued onto it, a spare mud flap Land Rover emblem, which mimics the Tomb Raider floor panel .
